I’m just too excited. I just got off the phone a short time ago with Thomas at Diablo Paddlesports. I’ll have a new kayak on the way here shortly!

I’ve wanted one of the Diablo Paddlesports kayaks since their Audios was debuted. What makes the Diablo line up different from the rest is that they’re a hybrid between a stand up paddleboard and a kayak. Sit down and paddle like a kayak. Stand up and paddle like a paddleboard. The 36″ wide kayak is plenty stable stand on, as you would do for a paddleboard, and that also makes it excellent to use to stand up and do some sight casting to bass, carp, and even rockfish on the coast!

Furthermore it has a very shallow draft. It’ll float me and my fishing gear in just a few inches of water. I honestly feel that this will be the ideal kayak for coastal river steelheading and for stalking Columbia River flats for carp.

I can’t wait to get it outfitted also! I’m working up an order for YakAttack accessories like the Gear Trak, PanFish Portrait, and other rigging to make this an awesome fishing kayak. I’m getting the Chupacabra which is their shorter kayak. Having paddled both the Audios and Chupacabra, I knew I couldn’t go wrong with either one. They both had plenty of speed, and the Chupacabra had a bit more maneuverability, ideal for river fishing.

The Chupacabra is the second model in Diablo’s line of hybrid SUP-Yaks, a cross between a Stand-Up Paddleboard and a Sit-on-top kayak. As one of the most stable platforms, our unique design is great for extra weight and can even get the big guys in shallow water without sacrificing maneuverability.

Features: – Tri-Hull design allows you to get in shallower water and gives you more stability. – Pull-up Strap in front to make standing up to paddle much easier. – Adjustable Foot Pegs – Wet Storage in front and back of boat o 1” webbing in the stern and bungee on the bow o Mold in well for fishing crate in rear – 2 drink holders, one fits 12oz beverages with a koozie, the other fits 32oz water bottles – Traction pad in cockpit for secure footing – Front Dry storage accessible from cockpit – Two 6” dry access hatches at the rear of cockpit – Two paddle holders – Over size cockpit for comfort standing or sitting o Fits most 4 point seating systems – 5 comfort carry handles – Smooth, flat surface allows for suction cup mounts for fishing rods, GPS, fish finders, etc.

PS: my appologies for the extended vacation from the blog! I don’t have a real good reason for it.

I’m preparing for my first mothership kayak fishing trip. What’s that? Well, 6 of us are meeting up in Newport, OR, throwing our kayaks on a boat, going 30 miles out, and doing some kayak fishing for albacore tuna. Needless to say, I’m STOKED for the trip.

I’ve never fished for tuna, and I’ve been out of kayak fishing for awhile with a bad back. With my back improvements, I’m definitely ready to hit the water again, and what a better chance than to slay some tuna! Fortunately my wife does a lot of canning already, so we’ll easily be able to make use of all the fish.

There isn’t a whole lot to do to the kayak to get ready. With the fast action of the tuna, a fish finder isn’t necessary, so the sonar will stay home. Same goes for the anchor trolly, as it’ll only get in the way.

Instead, I’ll be rigging up some proper bow and stern lines, which I’ve not had until now. The reason for these lines is to make moving the kayak around the boat easier when I’m not in it. Also, we can string up the kayaks behind the boat as we near proper fishing waters.

Aside from the bow and stern lines, the only thing left to worry about is the rod holders. The rear flush mount holders on the Ocean Kayak Tridents should hold just fine, but I’d rather use my RAM Mounts. I might have to rough up the ball-and-socket style mounting system with a bit of sandpaper to give it some extra holding power. Before I do that, I’ll do a bit of testing. I’d also really like to get a RAM fly rod holder, because I’d like to pick up at least one albacore on the fly.

The gear is probably the toughest part. The Oregon Albacore fishery is well renowned, and there is a lot of gear to go along with it. Ideally, I’d like to slimline the gearing to just a few items. I’ll be loaning an appropriate rod and reel from Marvin of Marvin’s Guide Service. That alone is saving me a couple hundred bucks in gear that could be better spent elsewhere. As far as rigging goes, I’ll be running 30# fluorocarbon leaders to either Rapala X15s or 1.5oz jigs with 4-5″ swimbaits, conditions making the call on the lure. Butterfly jigs are also an option that I might take with me.

As I hinted, I’d love to take a fly rod with me. I could troll with it, but, of course, casting to jumpers would be the ideal situation. There isn’t a whole lot of information about fly casting to Oregon Albacore. I have managed to find a couple patterns that would be good if I can find them – 4-5″ long Clousers and Shock and Awes are the usual flies called upon, especially in sardine patterns. Those that have used the fly against albacore have suggested 12wt rods. Sadly, I don’t own one. I thought I might have been able to find a 10wt to borrow, but a 12wt is likely out of the question. There are very few 12wts being fished in Oregon, and many area fly shops don’t even have them stocked. I’ve still got my fingers crossed though.

Ambush Charters is the first to say, “Yeah, we’ll take you guys out!” The first ever mothership trip out of Oregon was just a couple weeks ago, and went off pretty well. The second trip ever is less than two weeks away, and I couldn’t be more excited. Much thanks to the Ambush crew for taking on this adventure.

Keeping a log of your fishing adventures is the best way to keep track of your successes and failures. With time, a glance to the moon phase, tides, and weather can tell you exactly where you need to fish – provided you kept track in the past.  Rite in the Rain makes this even easier with waterproof log books.  Whether you bass fish, stalk reds on in the flats, or throw flies along the banks, Rite in the Rain has a professionally designed fishing log, and paddle logs, just for you.

Rite in the Rain has been around since the 1920s, providing waterproof paper for industries including logging, biology, farming, and more. The 100% recyclable paper features a special waterproof coating to protect whatever notes you need to keep.  I’m surprised that I just learned about Rite in the Rain at Outdoor Retailer – I grew up right down the road from them. I’m glad the jumped out of their booth at OR and snagged me out of the isle though. I took a look at their papers, and I was impressed.  They even told me a couple good stories about how awesome their waterproof paper is. How good is it?  Lets take a look.

Using a all weather pen, or, as I did, just a regular pencil to keep your notes.  Here’s an example of my day at the Oregon Rockfish Classic.  Here you can see in the notes that it includes areas for GPS location, structure type, water depth, and more. I just wrote a general synopsis of a trip out of Depoe Bay, fishing the area right in front of The Hole.

Now, this is what it looks like after getting run through the dishwasher.

As you can see, it certainly works.  While, you’re not likely going to be throwing your notebooks through the dishwasher, you certainly can with Rite in the Rain.  It’s probably the best way to keep it clean after you get it all slimed up while fishing – or should I say catching?

As you can see, Rite in the Rain is still usable when it’s wet as well.  All-weather pens definitely write better when the paper is wet, and, as you can see in the photograph, I was able to write through a large drop of water on the paper. 

Rite in the Rain also makes plain copier paper should you want to print out your own maps, lined notebooks for more lax note taking, and many other products useful to fishermen, and anyone needing waterproof paper.  Find out more about their full line of waterproof paper products at www.RiteInTheRain.com

Last year, the Jackson Kayak’s ‘Coosa took inland kayak fishing by storm.  An incredibly agile and stable fishing platform that excelled on small rivers, the Coosa still left a little to be desired on larger bodies of water where speed and direction are more desired.  Jackson Kayaks put Drew Gregory back to work and now two new fishing platforms are poised to hit the market.

First up, hoping to hit the shelves by October, is the aptly named ‘Cuda. This 14′ 3″ kayak is an all around versatile boat made to fish just about any type of water.  The length lends it to covering water well, without being too difficult to make the turns when it needs.  And at over 29″ wide it is plenty stable to stand up and do some sight fishing.  The ‘Cuda also sports the same hi/lo seat of the Coosa, so you can be plenty comfortable when you’re sitting on the kayak instead.  The nice part with the hi/lo seat, aside from comfort, is easily adjustable.  You can drop it down low for better center of gravity when punching through the surf, or raise it up high for a better view of the fishing water.

The ‘Cuda will introduce for the first time Jackson’s rod tip cover, tackle stag­ers, fly rod stagers, safety flag, stand assist handle and a 26-inch center hatch (larger than the prototype photographed) that can have an insert to make it dry storage or a fish cooler big enough to fit a beautiful slot redfish. The optional hatch insert can be removed for easy access to the interior of the boat and for easy rod storage while on the water. The hatch cover itself is quite sturdy and will have no problem supporting electronics or rod holders without a problem. 

Along the side of the kayak are the “rod stagers” – molded in areas for keeping your fishing rods close at hand when you’re not fishing.  They lay close to the deck, secure with a bungee, and protected at the tip by the new tip cover at the bow.  Also, along the sides of the seat, and on either side of the massive tank well, are “tackle stagers.”  These are areas specifically molded to hold tackle trays, which can also be secured by bungee.  It’s pretty simple to see that Drew Gregory really thought about keeping things easy to reach when you need it. You’ll find these on the Big Tuna as well.

Other key features of The ‘Cuda include

• Elite hi/lo seat, with new rear and underside pockets.
• Center storage hatch with removable inserts  (Optional cooler insert offered as an accessory )
• Paddle holder and stager
• Multiple rod stagers, including fly rod stagers
• Rod tip cover on bow
• Both bow and stern hatches with injection molded hatch rims to ensure a solid, snug fit.
• Rudder and non-rudder versions
• 2 flush mount rod holders included.
• Removable skid plate
• Closeable mesh side pocket
• Tackle box stagers on side and tankwell
• Unique rear seating position which opens up the deck area.
• Jackson Kayak long load safety flag
• Beverage holder
• Flat area for mounting accessories
• Large rear tank well
• Stand assist handle included
• Locking bar
• Low profile to help be more friendly in the wind.

If you prefer to fish with a partner, look no further than the Big Tuna.  This 13′ 9″ tandom features all the same tackle organization of the rest of the Jackson Kayaks fishing fleet, and built it into a stable 33″ two-seater that will kill ‘em on the saltwater. The built in “Tuna Tank” drops into the water and will actually even help further balance the kayak when riding two up.  When fishing solo, just move the rear seat up into a middle position and have at it.  The prototype on display at Outdoor Retailer this month was still a bit rough around the edges, but Drew and the folks at Jackson hope to have it all primed and ready for the market in December.

The Big Tuna is a creature unlike any other on the market, with multiple never before seen features in the kayak fishing world. Leading the charge on these unique elements has to be the ‘Tuna Tank,’ a unique bait/live well that requires no plumbing or electronics.  It utilizes the wa­ter from beneath the boat to circulate into the bait tank keeping fish lively and fresh. The tank also resides in the center of the boat for easy ac­cess and management. When not in use, the Tuna Tank lifts out of the water, while remaining contained under the hatch covering it.  When its ready to be used, open the hatch, and push the Tuna Tank down into the water.  An ingenious setup for anyone that likes to fish live bait.  Constantly fresh and cool water will flow through the tank, keeping your live bait in the best shape possible. I see this is a something we’ll start seeing on many other kayaks in the future.

Jackson Kayak also brings the popular elite seats, and new ‘Face time’ seating! Simply rotate the front seat around to face your part­ner in conversation while drifting some fresh live bait from the Tuna Tank. Guide your friends, children and clients to the fish of a lifetime by controlling the boat from the rear seat while they enjoy the ability to fish without the worry of paddling. Of course, sometimes you can have too much face time and that is why the architects at Jackson Kayak have made the Big Tuna easily convertible and fishable as a solo boat as well.

At the back of the kayak is the drift chamber. Designed as a place to run a rear anchor without the need of a trolley, making rigging the Big Tuna easier, and safer to operate. 

additional Big Tuna features include

• Two elite seats included for use in solo or tandem mode.
• FaceTime seating – front paddler can face rear paddler
• patent pending 26 inch center bait tank
• optional solid center hatch for dry storage
• optional cooler hatch insert for center hatch
• optional ‘glass bottom’ insert for underwater viewing
• optional hatch covers to fit your style
• easy transducer installation
• Tackle box stagers
• rudder and non- rudder options
• rod tip cover
• beverage holder
• molded in ‘drift chamber,’ for drag chains/anchors
• large rear hatch w/ internal rod storage.
• 22 inch flat standing platform
• closeable side pockets
• front day hatch
• adjustable foot pegs
• rear and underside pocket on elite seat.
• Jackson Kayak long load safety flag
• paddle holders and stagers
• mounting space for rod holder and accessory mounting.

Today was the Outdoor Retailer on site demo day; a chance for folks to get out on the water and use kayaks and SUPs from attending exhibitors. Many other exhibitors were there as well. Here are some of the things I loved (you’ll need to google the links, I’m writing this from my iPhone)

Fikking walking stick fly rods. Making hiking into small waters easier when you don’t have to worry about the added problem of packing in a rod with you. This 5wt fly rod is built on North Fork Composite blanks. The 3 piece rod breaks down and stores inside of itself!! It handles great and carries a lifetime warranty.

Diablo Paddlesports Chupacabra w/ skeg. I put this kayak in the water after the wind picked up and Lake Jordanelle was starting to get nautical. It handled the chop and the wind very well. The skeg, new this summer, is exactly what this kayak needed.

Grip Socks. Part spandex, part neoprene, part grippy sole, these are awesome. In fact I went without shoes the rest of the day. So far they have done well in the wet, sand, mud, gravel and asphalt. You can easily wear them inside of shoes as I’m doing now

That’s all for now. My thumbs are wearing out.

I’m hoping that might might find myself making a long drive to Salt Lake City next week for the Outdoor Retailer Summer show. Much like ICAST is to the fishing world, Outdoor Retailer is the largest outdoor sports tradeshow in the US. With over 300 paddlesports venders (and 1000 others), I’m excited most about heading to the demo day where I can get on the water and check out some of the newest boats. I know Ocean Kayak will be there with the new Tetra 10 and 12, Hobie will have their new Revo 11, and Jackson Kayaks say that Drew Gregory will be showing off two brand new kayak fishing prototypes the ‘Cuda and Big Tuna. His first kayak, the Jackson Coosa, has been a HUGE hit with inland kayak anglers, and, judging a kayak by its name, it sounds like the next two boats are going to be ideal for saltwater kayak fishing. Malibu hinted to new kayaks coming when I talked to them at ICAST, so hopefully they’ll have something new for the world to see as well. I’m also excited to give the Diablo Paddlesports Chupacabra a spin around the lake with their new skeg at the stern.

While not everyone can attend Outdoor Retailer, definitely tune into the website where you can find hints of some of the latest and greatest outdoor gear before they hit the shelves.

Stay tuned here and on my twitter feed for photos and news as I get them from the show.

One of the greatest bounties to be had out of Pacific waters is Dungeness Crab. While crabbing is very different than the kayak fishing we enjoy, it can be done from a kayak as well. Companies like Promar, Scotty and Danielson have made products that make crabbing from your kayak easy to do.

Cages, traps and rings, oh my!

Promar and Danielson both make collapsible crab pots that make stowage easy. I have both the Danielson folding crab trap and one of the many Promar folding traps, the TR-102. The Danielson pot is 24x24x12 and is made of vinyl coated steel wire. This is one of the most popular recreational crab pots you’ll find in the PacNW. They are very inexpensive and I picked mine all up while on sale for about $15 each. Each side offers a swinging door to trap crab. Each side clips into place, and to fold, just unclip two opposing sides, fold in, and the trap will collapse on itself. It is very easy to store several of these pots on the back of your kayak.

The Promar TR-102 is slightly larger at 32x24x11. It features a steel frame with nylon webbing. My favorite feature of this Promar trap is that it is center hinging. This is very easy to operate with 3 clips across the top to set the trap up. When it comes time to sort your catch, just set the trap across your lap, unhook the 3 clips, and let the trap open up and get to sorting! Promar now also has a 32″ round collapsing crab pot. This one is spring loaded, and features the same nylon webbing, and 4 entrance funnels. The top features a drawstring entrance to make getting in and out of the pot for sorting an easy task.

Crab rings (hoop nets) are also an option. They are not a trap, but mostly a “welcome mat” with bait in the center. Crab rings require more work as you have to constantly check them. They cannot trap crab, so its easy for them to grab a bite from your bait and crawl away. They’re a good option for crabbing, but not something I like to use since I tend to drop my crap pots and go fishing. If you’re crabbing a good area, and all you want is crab, the rings will be faster to use and provide more action.

Rope, Buoys, and Accessories

With your crab pots in hand, you now need rope to get them back out of the water. I prefer to use lead-core rope. The lead gives the rope just enough weight to sink slowly into the water. This keeps your slack from floating on the surface of the water where it can entangle power boats. This is a great way to make enemies on the water. At 5/16″ diameter, the leaded rope is very easy to handle while pulling up your pots, while standard poly rope I’ve found gets very slippery when wet. How much rope to you need? I like to suggest about 20′ more rope than the depth you’ll be crabbing in. With tides and currents, 100′ of rope is good for about 80′ water depth. If you find yourself crabbing a variety of depths, you can easily use clips and several sections of 50′ rope to adjust to your needs. If most of your line is leaded, you can get away with using a less expensive poly rope for your top sections.

Speaking of your top section, you’ll need a buoy to keep your rope afloat. I know we just talked about keeping the rope submerged, but we do need to be able to pull things up. Check your regulations to see if your crab buoy needs to meet specific guidelines. In Oregon, there is no such law, but in Washington, crab buoys must be red/white. Styrofoam floats take less space than plastic bottles, so leave your old bleach bottle in the garage. It’s also useful to mark your buoy with your name to help ID it. I also include my license number.

On top of my pots you’ll notice the blue harnesses. These help make sure your pot stays level when you’re pulling up your crab. They are not a necessary item, but I do find things to be easier with them. I also leave these on my pots when I have them folded up for storage.

If you find yourself crabbing in a heavy current, you’ll want to add extra weight to your pots. Most of the time their weight is good enough on their own, but I find a little bit more piece of mind by strapping on a pair of 20oz lead weights to each pot. It may not seem like a lot, but that’s enough to double the weight of most collapsible traps, and make them stick to the bottom when you need them to the most.

Scotty Mounts also makes a great device called the Trap Ease. The Trap Ease fits most common Scotty bases, and is sold with their standard deck mount. This gives you just a bit more leverage to make pulling pots that much easier. If you find yourself crabbing a lot, then you’ll probably want one of these. The Trap Ease is also great for pulling up anchor if you’re fishing deep moving water like I often do. While I don’t have one just yet, I’ll be on my boat soon.

Finally you’ll need a crab gauge. These will help you quickly determine the keepers from the throw backs. Most gauges also have cut outs for sizing clams, and illustrations to help you ID male keepers from a throw back female.

Of Bags and Bait

There are as many bait options as there are for trap setups. Old herring left over from salmon fishing works great, as do carcasses of salmon, rockfish or tuna. Some crabbers swear by 9 Lives cat food. Others by Friskies. Albacore tuna bellies are loved by some. Lastly chicken is well known to catch crab as well. I usually use chicken or fish parts. The advantage of chicken is that it does not attract sea lions and seals, which will destroy your crab pot to steal your bait. Bait should be put in a container inside the trap with either a bait cage or bait bag. Cages are wire or plastic mesh and can become bulky in a kayak. Bait bags are much easier to use because they can be left inside the pots when they’re folded. The Danielson pots do not include a bait bag or cage, while the Promar pots do include a nylon mesh bait bag.

Putting it all to use

Ok, time to start crabbing. A fish finder and GPS will be very useful. They’ll help you find a nice sandy bottom where you’ll find Dungeness. The fish finder will also help you know the depth that you’re at so you’re sure to have enough rope. You’ll want the GPS to mark your spot to make finding your pot easier. It’s amazing how much things can move with tides and currents, and the GPS will usually get you within a few yards of your buoy. If you’re dropping more than one pot, just paddle off about 50 yards and drop the next.

I like to give the pots at least a 2 hour soak, if not more. There are a couple places I know on the Oregon Coast that will have you limiting out in less time, but I like to give myself more time to fish while the pots are sitting. If I have the time, I’ll let them sit a whole tide cycle. Especially in bays and estuaries this long soak is important as the crab move in and out in time with the tides. If you’re in more open water this is not as important.

Once it’s time to retrieve, paddle back to your buoy and start pulling up the line. I usually toss the line off the opposite side of my kayak, though I would rather avoid doing so. If you have a Scotty Trap Ease, grab your buoy and run your line over the pulley. Pull the pot over the side of the kayak over your lap and begin sorting. Often times crab gets piled into my crate, but a burlap sack works just as well. Then just throw them in your hull if you’d like. Grabbing crab by the back legs will help avoid the pinch.

To sum it all up, here’s one of my PacNW brethren, Bryce Molenkamp from NW Kayak Anglers demonstrating much of what I’ve said!

Kayak Crabbing with NWKA from Bryce Molenkamp on Vimeo.

by far the coolest thing today was the new Lowrance scupper mount, especially if paired with the new Talon base. Way too cool, check out the photos.

Diablo Paddlesports has a cool new front skirt aimed at fly anglers. It completely covers the front hatch and foot well area to avoid tangles. It’s sweet.

Hobie’s second “new” kayak was an 11′ Oasis paddle kayak. With their dominance found in the Mirage Drive, I have to wonder why the paddle kayak.

I’m STOKED for the new Wright & McGill technique specific salmon and steelhead rods. They’re very tough, and offer carbon fiber reinforced buttsections – very nice for keeping things in shape when you’re pulling a plug or diver back upstream. They’re gonna retail around $100 and I know I plan on having a couple!

The coolest bait, in my opinion, is 100% biodegradable and made from nature materials – Pork and worms. They crazy awesome and will gather bass and walleye to you.

Last night was the new product showcase. Here are a couple of the goods. Much more to report through the week, stay tuned!

Click through to see more, including the first video on YouTube of the Hobie Revo 11

some others

Starting on my first full rod build. I’ve been wanting to build a rod for awhile, and I figured, after doing a few repairs in the past, I can pull it off. Last time I was up at Cabelas, I found a “kit” in the bargin bins. For $10, a handle, seat, guides, thread, epoxy, etc, I felt I couldn’t go wrong. The components are all PacBay…

Then it came down to time. The kit just laid around until now.

I really wanted to build a fiberglass rod. 8′ 4 or 5wt. Building on a budget, though, I was unsure if I’d be able to build it on glass. I barely even flyfish, so if the wife knew I threw down over a bill on a blank, she’d probably not be too happy. I shopped around on the Anglers Workshop website a bit, and made a few mental selections. Yesterday I made the drive up to Anglers Workshop, but since they’re next door, I went into Lamiglas first.

I’m so glad I did. In the closeout bin there was a 8′ 5wt (FL965-2) for $45. Perfect! It’s straight, and still carries the warranty.

I made the walk across the parking lot to Anglers Workshop, picked up an appropriate sized tiptop (i knew the kit one was too small) and a reamer for the handle.

What I didn’t realize, was that, clearly, this kit was made to go with a graphite rod, and probably a light 3wt. The guides are probably OK, but the winding checks included were tiny. The handle is smaller than I thought. And the reel seat was almost the same diameter as the .490″ butt of the Lamiglas 5wt. Fortunately I made a good pick on the reamer, and while the wood is now pretty thin, the reel seat does fit. I went heavy on the epoxy, mostly to reduce the chance of the wood splitting – its only a couple millimeters thick. I was also able to get the largest of the winding checks heated up a bit and got it to slide down into place as well.

That’s where I’m at for now. I spined it fine, and working out the guide spacing now. I fish 95% of the time from my kayak, and went with the oversized stripper because of that. I almost went with an oversized tip too… Just think of throwing flies while you’re sitting on the ground, and that’s what kayak fishing is like.

Anyways… here are a few pics of how things are as of this morning.

top and bottom all glued up and dried after an overnight

guides taped

concern

This spacing was a bit of a concern. I didn’t want to stress the ferrule unnecessarily and cause failure Since it’s a tip-over, I thought I’d start the wrap in the section a bit further ahead than normal (where the dark reinforcement can be seen) and then continue it all the way past the guide to the end. I’m also thinking I could lay some wraps between the feet as well. I’ve seen plenty of commercially built rods that have placed guides even closer to the ferrule, so I guess i should be fine

Lamiglass doesn’t publish “suggested” guide spacing for their blanks. They only publish the spacing for the rods they build. Since they only sell blanks of the fiberglass fly rods, they don’t have anything to suggest for spacing

That said, my current spacing is:
mm 120 240 365 495 655 815 1000 1200 1425 1680
inch 4.7 9.4 14.4 19.5 25.75 32 39.4 47.25 56 66

I had thought about spreading things out a bit more, and reducing the guide count by 1, but after swinging it a bit, I feel pretty happy with things like this. I’ll be wrapping in red.

1 week later:

Finally got around to putting some wraps on the rod. This was the first guide I put together, followed by the stripping guide making the butt half complete. I’ve finished wrapping the top with the red, and its time to move on to the gold. So far things are halfway decent.

Now:

She’s drying the last coat of epoxy right now…

Definitely laid the wraps down this weekend.

The Ferrule was some work. that’s a lot of thread for someone handturning the rod. I kept things nice and tight but needed to do quite a bit of burnishing to get things lined up – that was actually the story of the build…

I ended up erasing all of this, but went with the same look. I hit it with a bit of 220grit and wrote things out with a super-fine hawks quill pen and archival acrylic ink. It looks great under the gloss too…

more to come after things are dry… not sure when I’ll even be able to cast it… might have to take it to Vegas with me next week for ICAST and use their casting pool…